Next day

Went back out to surf this morning and the waves were still up from the cyclone spinning way off the coast. The swell was still coming in, though not quite as large as the previous days. Plus the wind had settled and it was glassy smooth. I realized in my last post, I might have come off sounding perhaps a little un-intrepid (if there is such a word). I also realized that despite all my talk of surfing, I have never posted any actual photos of me in the water. After all, I could be making the whole thing up. Luckily, Kylie snapped this photo from one of the piers. I had to zoom in quite a bit, but if you look closely, you can tell its my behind bent out awkwardly.

This actually isnt one of my best moments. I am surfing a right, which is backhand for me (my back is to the wave) and the angle of my board is not pointing far enough to the right. I kind of skid down this wave at an angle, but had I turned right harder, I could have stayed on the face longer and gained more speed. Still, its a decent shot and much thanks to Kylie for taking it.

And no, I didnt take the other surfer's head off who is paddling out of my way in the foreground.