Southern cyclones and fear

In case you cant tell, this is a map of the southern tip of South Africa and Madagascar. Pressure bars and wind patterns are superimposed. The big orange circular thing on the right is a massive cyclone spinning just SE of Madagascar. A cyclone is essentially the same thing as a hurricane, a huge mass of coulds spinning around a low pressure area. But here in the southern hemisphere, cyclones spin in the opposite direction (clockwise) just like the toilets do. Its called the Coriolis effect

This cyclone is in perfect position to be spraying Durban with lots of swell. The system has two important aspects to wave generation: its very powerful with a low central pressure and there is a long distance between the storm and the shore. Its just starting to be the end of summer and the beginning of winter here in Durban, and the wind and waves are beginning to pick up.

This particular storm is causing pretty big waves in Durban. Nothing like the waves we saw last November at the Goodwave competition, but still powerful and tall. I paddled out yesterday afternoon and was a little frightened. Most sets were medium sized waves, around 4-6 feet. But then a big 8 foot set would come through and, to be honest, it scared me a little bit. I still have a strong respect and pretty healthy fear of the ocean. I looked around me at the handful of other surfers around, and decided I was in over my head. I fought the current for a while, and finally caught a smallish wave all the way to the beach.

Its always hard to tell if you are playing it smart, or just being a big pansy. Its such a fine line in surfing and in life. The balance of caution and hazard is something we deal with everyday. In this case, my perhaps exagerated fear of the powerful sea was too overwhelming and I decided to play it safe. Whether it was the right decision or not, I'll never know. Such is life.